Installing the subfloor took some time to complete. I had to do a bunch of research on subfloor choices. Marine-grade plywood would have probably been the best option, but I am not made of money. I went with a 3/4 inch plywood from Dunn Lumber that connects via tongue and groove. I think I made a good choice. As long as it’s not perpetually wet, it should last forever. The downside is that the ceiling is now 3/4 of an inch closer to my head. By the time I’m done with the interior, I’m guessing the height of the ceiling will be at the crown of my head. Oh well, I didn’t intend to use the bus as a dance floor anyway.

I had a guy ask me about my stud placement. He pointed out that using this method makes it much more difficult to replace the windows. I thought about this before I went this route. I concede that if the entire window must be replaced, this will be a difficult repair. However, if a pane breaks, it really wouldn’t be that difficult to fix. I could remove the broken pane from the housing and replace it with a new pane using window putty. I would probably hire a professional to do that for me anyway. In the event that I do need to make a replacement, I have faith in myself to come up with a viable solution. The worst case scenario would be using an angle grinder to rip out the window, covering the hole with sheet metal, and using an RV window in its place. That would definitely be a pain, but not impossible. Anyway, thinking this way is planning for failure.

I weighed the pros and cons of this method for stud installation. This method will allow for more space behind the wall to run wires, and makes for a solid foundation for the wall paneling. Having a slight air space behind the wall will also help the radiant barrier do its work. By having the stud beams go floor to ceiling, they stand a better chance of holding together because there will be more anchor points in the construction. All in all, I think this is the best way to go. If a window breaks, well, I’ll work on that problem when it comes up.